I probably get more calls in a month about looking at member lawns than I do about the anything to do with the golf course. I enjoy helping when I can and assembled this quick post that highlights the main topics I'm asked about. The key to a suuccessful lawn in Highlands is:
1. Spring fertilizer with a crabgrass pre-emergent chemical.
2. An insecticide applied the first week of June for white grub control.
3. A fall fertilizer application.
4. Spray broadleaf weeds on a 2-3 week basis.
It really is that simple. Above, are the results of a meticulously maintained lawn. If perfection is desired, a good systemic fungicide on a 3-4 week interval always helps. Here are a few examples of less than desirable lawns and the reason for their challenges:
This is a great lawn, however, lack of sunlight is the limiting factor. If this lawn is able to get more sun, it would be perfect. You can see the turf is less dense and has a water soaked appearance. Sun and air movement make all the difference. It's no different than a golf green. If sun isn't realistic, consider alternatives because you will never have a nice lawn. It's that simple.
Above is green lawn, however, it has very coarse textured grass. This is the result of a landscaper using cheap seed during establishment or even inter seeding. You get what you pay for, grass seed included. If you want a nice lawn, don't inter seed it with a 50lb bag of Kentucky 31 Tall Feacue that cost $8 at Lowes. Good seed isn't cheap and can cost $5 or more per pound. The grass above would not be suitable for a horse.
Just like the challenges we have with roughs, are also seen in lawns. Due to our damp environment, creeping bentgrass thrives in roughs. However, when it gets dry, it is the first grass to head south. During rainy periods it's fine although it is more prone to turfgrass diseases and may require more fungicide use if the yard is predominantly made of bentgrass.
Above is wilted, dormant turf infested with nutsedge. Yellow nutsedge is something people call all the time about. It's easy to kill and can be selectively be removed from the grass without hurting the desired turf. You see this in a lot of low lying wet areas. Members who over irrigate their yards usually have bad nutsedge issues. The lime green sedge grows 2-3x the rate of Kentucky bluegrass which frustrates those wanting a nice lawn.
All too often homeowners hire people to maintain lawns who have absolutely no idea what they are doing. It's a business where owning a pick up truck and lawn mower qualifies you for a career. Consider hiring someone who knows what they are doing. Let me give you one example. Last year on Pipers Court, there were about 4 lawns that were turned upside down by raccoons, skunks or wild hogs or a combination thereof depending on who you ask. Literally, turned upside down, as in the sod was brown side up. What happened you ask? Wild animals dig for white grubs, the larval stage of several Beatles. Did you know a $20 insecticide application on June 1st would have prevented this, 100%? If you prevent egg hatch, no grubs form and thus nothing for animals to dig for. There is no secret to a great lawn, just simple science. Think about the costs associated with re-establishing your lawn! Sod is $1/ft2 or more or seed can be painfully slow to establish. Again a $20 expense and it's a non issue. If your lawn care company doesn't understand turf science, you missed it. If they miss egg hatch by a week, it's too late, you don't get a second chance, not this year. If your lawn care service skipped this, you are at risk of the same damage. Hire a responsible, educated company that will make the most of the fertilizer and other products, using them to benefit your yard and not harm the environment.